Deep-Water Wave Speed
Speed of ocean waves in deep water from wavelength.
Formula
Variables
Example
λ=100 m: v = √(981/6.28) ≈ 12.5 m/s
How it works
This formula gives the speed of a surface gravity wave in deep water, where the seabed is far below the wave base and does not affect the motion. It comes from the deep-water dispersion relation, which shows that longer waves travel faster than shorter ones because their orbital motion penetrates more deeply into the water. The result depends only on wavelength and gravity, not on water depth, as long as the water is deep enough for the approximation to hold.
When to use it
Use this for ocean swell, open-sea wave analysis, and problems involving surface gravity waves in water deeper than about half the wavelength. It is useful in marine navigation, coastal engineering, and any physics problem asking for wave speed from wavelength in deep water.
Worked example, step by step
Given wavelength λ = 64 m Use v = √(gλ / 2π) Substitute values: v = √(9.81 × 64 / 2π) Compute the numerator: 9.81 × 64 = 627.84 Compute the denominator: 2π ≈ 6.283 So v = √(627.84 / 6.283) Calculate inside the root: 627.84 / 6.283 ≈ 99.9 Take the square root: v ≈ √99.9 ≈ 10.0 m/s Final answer: the deep-water wave speed is about 10.0 m/s
Common mistakes to avoid
- Using the formula for shallow water, where speed depends on depth instead of wavelength
- Forgetting that λ must be in metres and g in m/s², which breaks the units
- Using π instead of 2π in the denominator, which gives a speed that is too large
Did You Know?
Longer ocean swells travel faster, which is why the first waves from a distant storm are the longest.
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